Delivery No 1

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The Deli Truck Cometh

In the current issue of The Grid, David Sax says I’m boasting about wanting to revolutionize street food in Toronto.  Boasting? Hmmmmm…  Not sure how I feel about that.  A couple years back in Gourmet Magazine Sax said I had a “modest goal” of selling great smoked meat sandwiches out of the Monarch Tavern. He was right.  All I wanted was to make a living selling the food that I love to all comers.

Since that time much has changed but my ambition remains the same.  What’s changed, you ask? Instead of using a 4 rack Bradley puck smoker, I use a 48 brisket Southern Pride.  Instead of climbing the stairs of the Monarch every day, I’ve got a parking spot behind a dumpster on College Street where my very own restaurant bears my very own name (and way too many pictures of me).  Instead of 6 or 8 of us slogging it out every day, there are over 30 of us now with all the baggage each of us carries. Mind you, I still rent an apartment by myself downtown. And I still have difficulty maintaining a relationship hence the living alone part.

However, my goal of serving the food that I love to the city that I love remains unchanged.  And while others’ opinions may vary, I know that the food and service my team provides today is consistently better than its ever been.  I couldn’t be prouder of what we do and I get asked all the time about opening other locations. My answer is always the same: “No thanks.” Why wouldn’t I want a chain of restaurants, you ask? I’m glad you asked…

I feel strongly that the deli business is intensely personal.  Deli people tend to name the restaurants after themselves.  It seems to me anyway that what we do is an expression of our passion for this food culture if not a sign of mental illness (or both).  I mean, seriously, the stress of my job is unreal at times but maybe that’s just me.  I’m losing my point (and my hair), which was that as the owner, I need to be there as much as possible.  No one cares as much as I do about the fine details of what we do.  The crispness of the fries, the temperature of the meat.  That being said I’m blessed to have the most incredible team who really do care passionately about our guests and their experiences in the deli. Its only through their dedication that we’ve been able to achieve the consistency that we have achieved.

The bottom line is that if I were to have two locations something tells me I’d want to be in both places at once and that’s just not possible.  However, to my way of thinking, a deli truck is the next best thing to having another restaurant.  I don’t think people who buy sandwiches from the truck will expect to find me in it.  And through ingenuity, technology and the miracles of social networking I think a deli on wheels will fill a huge void in this city and be the next best thing to eating in the restaurant.

A deli truck is better than another restaurant for soooooo many reason.  First it costs a fraction of what a new space costs to outfit and decorate.  Second, it solves the number one biggest challenge of a restaurant: finding a great location.  Instead of making customers come to me, I’ll go to them – at any time of day.  Location, location, location? You got that right.  Favourable rents too.  Add in the Hava Negila horn? Fuggedaboutit.

Michelle Rabin and I are doing deals with venues all over the city.  This truck is going to make a lot of people happy in the city and I couldn’t be more excited.  We had just hot dogs for many years then we had carts and now the era of the truck is dawning in Toronto. Launch date to be announced but it would be nice if it coincided with the three year anniversary of that first day at the Monarch, June 9 or my birthday June 17.

Good morning, city that I love.  We look forward to serving you. Here’s my truck.

This is the truck as its being built - kinda cool, eh?

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Kinda like the last supper

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The Man Himself

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Kevin Hilliard Night

This is Sloane’s Chris Murphy telling a Clapper story

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Funny thing happened in the deli today

An older gentleman comes up to me at the bar today.  Actually, he kind of looked like Santa Clause in the off-season. “I’d like to congratulate you,” he says with a warm, generous smile. “That’s very nice of you to say,” I say feigning humility.  ”You see,” he continues, “I’ve been here four or five times and today everything was perfect… for the very first time.”  I laughed. He laughed too. “I’m blessed to have the most wonderful customers,” I said.  He sort of nodded his agreement.  ”I am persistent,” he said, eyes twinkling.  ”And so am I,” I said, heart cockles nicely warmed.

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A few of my favourite things…

Last August when I rented a shack in Gravenhurst the first thing I did after I put my bags down was make soup.  Green split pea with smoked ham hock.  I mention this to expose a little known fact about myself: I love to cook. Given a few moments to myself and some basic ingredients I can throw together something nice.  Cooking for friends is even better.

So being in the place I find myself (see previous post), I decided to express and share my joy with friends.  Joel and Yasamine live 6 doors down and had me over for dinner many months ago.  I’ve been meaning to return the favour and tonight was the night.

It was a non-stop busy day and I started to think about postponing.  My last meeting of the day ended at 6.30 and J & Y were coming at 8. Swung by the Metro at the end of my street for fish but quickly noticed the $6/lb lobsters.  Mmmmmm lobster.  Nick Gasparo had cut me some swanky prosciutto so I bought a tray of cut fruit and wrapped the ham around the orange melon.

I dropped my shopping bags and got to work:

Baby Pontiac potatoes boiled and then baked in sel gris.  A little butter meuniere with French shallots. Grilled veg salad (zucchini, eggplant, red and yellow peppers) topped with good olive oil (thanks Gregory) and get this: fresh Buratta.  Plus the boiled lobster with clarified butter. Finished with the rest of the cut fruit, Greek yoghurt and awesome maple syrup.

Heaven.

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I feel fine (thanks REM)

Thanks for reading this.  I’m glad you’re here.  You might be new or a longtime reader but either way, this one’s for you.  I was telling cousin Amy the other day that the whole blogging thing freaks me out a little.  When Matt Galloway had me on his Metro Morning radio show he quoted my blog.  Matt Galloway reads my blog? WTF?!?

I told Amy that when I started making sandwiches in the Monarch almost 3 years ago it was easy (and cathartic) to use my blog as a place to release my angst, pain, stress and heartache.  I figured no one was reading and it was cheaper than the therapist I couldn’t afford anyway.  Then people started reading and some would talk to me about it. “I know a lot about you and you know nothing about me,” some guy said to me in the Deli.  I didn’t know how to respond.  Just turned and walked away all creeped out like.

Once or twice I mentioned being depressed.  People, lovely caring people, would come into the deli, put a hand on my shoulder and ask me how I’m doing in a deeply concerned way.  That kinda freaked me out too but I guess I asked for it.

Amy said that my blog posts now are all little bursts of excitement.  And why not? After 3 years of extraordinarily hard work I’m finally enjoying my deli life as never before.  Storytelling, home delivery, late night openings, the truck, Dragons Den, catering success, patio season, Kevin Hilliard night and a very busy dining room are all reasons to be happy. But I feel kinda weird about it all.

“Weird”?  All this high priced education and that’s the best I can do at expressing myself? Ok.  ”Uncomfortable” may be a more appropriate word.  I just don’t think I’m accustomed to feeling really good about myself.  And I think its obnoxious to blog about how great I feel. Its just way easier and maybe more fun to rant about my shortcomings and expose my own failures than trumpet my successes.  That’s wierd, eh? How can I feel bad about feeling good?

 

Please note: I’m not looking for encouragement. I’m just trying to explain why my posts have been less personal of late.  I do appreciate your support and encouragement more than I can ever express.  Where would the deli be without you? Nowhere, that’s where.  You are responsible for my success but not my happiness.  That comes from within.

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My Butcher Rules

This is Nick Gasparo. Son of Vince. Brother of Pascuale. For me, a quick trip to “Vince Gasparo’s” butcher shop on Bloor St. takes at least an hour and I love every moment.

First and foremost these guys have the best meat around. But it’s the interaction with the guys I love the most.

Vince is older than old school. He built the Old School. He taught there. The man pinches my (ample) cheeks. His pals come in to help out and I only wish I spoke Italian.

When Nick and Pat are around the place is like an old timey barber shop (stole your simile, Matt). They yell at each other, charm customers and always have me walking out of the store with more meat, cheese and eggs than I really needed but will certainly enjoy.

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Live Music Every Tuesday

Starting Tuesday May 17 @ 8 pm and then every Tuesday evening after Steve Singh will play and sing a couple of sets in the Deli.

Steve's playing at Caplansky's every Tuesday evening starting May 17 @ 8 pm

Steve’s a great friend and a great entertainer.  Guranteed to leave you humming one of his infectious tunes.

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