And Monday he was looking for another job. Except that this slicer is never late and the last time he missed a shift he called us from the police station where he was giving a statement before going to get his broken arm looked after. He actually came in yesterday for breakfast on his day off. We’re frankly worried about him.

Anyway, his absence meant that I was pressed into service and for the first time in ages I stepped in to slice on a busy Sunday. Its not like I haven’t sliced in a while but I’ve been doing these pansy-assed catering gigs where there’s no time pressure and its a total shmooze-fest instead of a full-on slicing shift in the deli.

“Need a drink,” asked Giulia mid-rush around 1pm. “You’re shvitzing” (yiddish for sweating). I think she was sort of snickering but I didn’t look up to see. It sounded snickerish but not in a mean way. “7-up, please” I said. “When’s Joe coming in for relief,” I asked. It actually got to the point where my hands were cramping around the handles of the knives and I had to ask Charlie to do a 2.5 lb take-out order for me.

There were days when I could crack single walnuts in my fists but that was because of my motorcycle. No one told me you can get clamps for your accelerator and consequently my grip was fierce following long bike trips. In any case, those days are gone although I really did have fun today and wouldn’t mind doing a few shifts a week slicing again. Plus it keeps me out of trouble and helps me focus on the meat.

I have started writing a reply to Corey Mintz’s question about consistency but I’ve yet to write something that I felt was worth publishing. Its not a simple question but it is an important one. I don’t want to sound defensive or incompetent either. I could mention that in “Save the Deli” David Sax quotes Schwartz’s owner Hy Diamond as saying that the barrel aged, dry-cured method of curing meat we use tends towards inconsistency.

There are variables in every part of the process which includes: curing, turning, spicing, smoking, cooling, steaming and slicing. Left out of this list is the cut of the brisket itself, the fridge temperatures, air pressure and all the human errors that could and do occur.

Of course, training and supervising people is the first, best thing we can do. And certainly the desire is there….

We’ve been booked to cater our first seder and I couldn’t be happier about it. I won’t name the customer because I haven’t asked her permission but she came in to discuss having her son’s bar mitzvah at the deli. After discussing that topic she mentioned the seder. “I’m so busy, I really don’t even want to think about it.” she told me and Vishanti.

“Haroseth and everything?” I asked. “Yes. Have you made it?” she asked. “Made it? According to Jewish tradition, I’m a direct descendant of Moses’ older brother Aaron. We invented the stuff.” I said. “Technically, no. I’ve never made it,” I said. But I’ve eaten it twice a year, every year for 40 years and she has a good recipe.

But that’s not all! hahahahaha Sorry. We’re also doing gefilte fish, matzoh ball soup, fricassee, braised brisket, smoked turkey, nodle pudding and some flourless deserts that have yet to be determined. Sound about right? I even offered to do the Four Questions but was rebuffed.

Of course, making a little extra would be a pleasure. Please place your Passover orders as soon as possible to avoid disappointment.

Sorry if you come and find us closed today, Monday February 15. I wish all of you a wonderful day. We had a really good weekend. No long lines or long waits but lots of happy customers.

Its reassuring too because I made the mistake of Googling myself Saturday. I used to do that in the early Monarch days and was amazed by the volume of comments about my food – mostly positive back then. Yesterday, I found a site with a series of nasty comments and it really put me off.

Fortunately, Saturday and Sunday the place was full of friends and of course there’s always a cousin or two around. It was a great weekend. Yesterday I met Sidney Frank, an immigration officer posted in Beijing on his way to the airport. He’s been living there for many years and almost screamed when I mentioned visiting my cousin Teddy Axler in Hong Kong just before handover. Apparently, they were friendly.

I love it when people remind me of my traveling days and even more when they indulge me by listening to my stories. I try keep it as brief as possible.

We bought a pair of used fryers from a used restaurant supply place on Ossington when we opened.  One of the fryers never worked right and after much pestering the vendor finally agreed to replace the fryer.  Today at 10 am a fellow shows up with the new (used) fryer.  He turns off the gas, disconnects the fryer and POOF! At some point some gas was ignited and a small fireball appeared in my kitchen.  Unfortunately, the technician was burned. In the confusion he grabbed for the extinguisher and sprayed it despite the fact that there was no fire. Then he fled.

However, the ball-o-flame did set off the gas alarm which brought the firefighters from across the street.  The fire guys called the police, EMS, Toronto Public Health and the Ministry of Labour. Oh and TSSA too.  Everyone wanted to know if the technician was okay.  We called the fryer vendor who hired the guy.  He came to the deli and told the police that he was the technician who installed the fryer despite the fact that he was not.  The police arrested him for obstruction.

Seeing your kitchen equipment guy being cuffed in your dining room and led away by the police is an experience I never imagined I’d have and I’m not grateful for it.

As I mentioned the fire guys called the Health Department.  Inspector looks around and says that because the fire extinguisher was used we couldn’t reopen until we clean up the powder and that means a total kitchen clean down.   But hey, its been a few months since our last inspection so how’s about we do one right now, he asks? Sure, I say, let’s inspect.  Meanwhile, the Enbridge guys show up and put tags on my gas equipment so I have to call a very expensive installer who luckily does make it out same day.

Then we all do full interviews with TSSA and the Ministry of Labour and wait for the trades people to show up.  All the while I’m trying to keep my staff, customers and suppliers informed.  We can’t re-open until we get the health inspector back tomorrow morning.  I’m confident that will happen even though its out of my control.

It could have been worse.  We lost a day and labour cost took a hit. I really feel for the fryer technician and for the equipment dealer too although, as mentioned, it could have been worse.

Bottom Line: if the Inspector comes back first thing tomorrow, we’ll be fine.

Feels like weeks since I unburdened myself on here.  Hope you don’t feel like I’m ignoring you.  I’m not.  Well, not any more.

January is the quietest month but I’m not complaining.  We closed for the first few days to give everyone a rest and do some cleaning.  When we reopened it was predictably quieter compared with December.  I heard from a few people that when they saw us put paper in the windows during the closure they thought we were done.  Yikes!  We aren’t “rolling in it” but its not dire either.  The paper was simply so people would know we were closed during the staff party that I was too cheap to pay someone else to host.

We’re starting to look deeper into how we do what we do to find efficiencies and ways to improve service.  We’ve decided to start smoking our own salmon for example.  At the same time, the furnace failed last week and I must apologise to everyone who shivered with us as the technician got it working properly.  Someone emailed me that I should have closed but closing is a last resort.  We comp’ed lots of coffee and tea and did lots of explaining but when the meat is as good as it is now, closing would be lose/lose.

I wish we could achieve a level of consistency where the meat was always as it is now but I know thats unlikely (due to the dry-rub method we use to cure meat).  I continue to get emails from people telling me my food is “drek” and others who fine it “awesome”.  At least they felt something, right?  I just know when my nephew Max siddled up to the bar for a fresser and a root beer that he loved every bite and I loved watching him eat it. Great kid.

Happily, we’ve been doing more and more catering events.  The live slicing was a big hit last night before the  TJFF Cinefile “Anvil” doc event at the Varsity VIP theatre and also Saturday night at Mio Adilman’s 40th birthday.  Not to sound like I’m trying to sell the idea that my smoked meat is fabulous but when its this good I love to stand behind it and watch people’s faces as they discover it for the first time.  And then come back for seconds.

On the personal front, my bachelor pad (do people still say that?) is almost ready for a house warming party.  I’ve got so much booze left from the staff party that it should be fun.  Bought a funky vintage (that means ‘used but still expensive’) ceiling lamp for my living room that needs to be installed as well as a dimmer switch.  You’ll see it at the party or the pics of the party.  I also need a kitchen table.  Friend and designer Jenny Armour used to have a Danish set that I loved.  Round teak table.  I’ll find something – just no more Ikea.

Quick shout out to my little sister Meredith and partner Rob on the birth of their son Rory. They’ve made us all very proud.

I wish each of them the courage to face their fears, live their dreams and experience the best and worst of what life has to offer with equanimity. Practice what I preach? I’m trying, Lord, I’m trying.

Its a tremendous pleasure for me to announce that the queen of retail, diva of deli and princess of pastrami (aka Jessie Roher) will be returning to Caplanskydom.  Jessica is my good luck charm and close friend.  She volunteered to help me open my deli-in-a-dive-bar 18 months ago and only left about a year ago to pad her resume with some higher education – a Master’s degree from LSE no less.

Since returning in September Jess finally succumbed to my begging and pleading.  Yes, my friends, the lovely and talented Ms. Roher will reprise her role starting the day after tomorrow (NYE!).  This time, she’ll do her own singing and dancing as well as my bookkeeping and just generally help me keep my shit together.  I couldn’t be happier to welcome her back.  We sat together today and reminisced about opening day at the Monarch (plates donated by her mom Beth and a plastic cup for a cash register donated by our friends at the Monarch).  She said we were “playing deli” for months and she’s right.  Now? We’re really a deli.  And a pretty good one too.  We’ll only get better with her influence and input.

Your’s too.  I love it when people send me messages about their experience at the deli.  Of course, the positive ones feel good but the not so positive ones are even more helpful.  I can’t be there 24 hours a day so its nice when customers and friends let me know how we did when I’m not around.  Ivy Knight, a Drake Hotel cook, freelance writer and all-around great lady was kind enough to Tweet about how awesome my team is while we were getting slammed yesterday.  She’s right.  The one and only Vishanti Moosai came in on her day off (for the second day in a row) to help save the day.

In the words of Now’s Steven Davey, I am indeed a very lucky man.

Caplansky’s will be closing at 8 pm on December 24 closed on December 25 and 26. We’ll also be closing at 8 pm on December 31 but open Jan 1, 2nd and 3rd. We will close from the 4th to the 8th.

I spent the morning at Ikea buying a bed, dresser, wardrobe, rug, desk and bookshelf.  After the stuff was delivered this evening I went to take a look at a vintage Danish sofa and chair set that I found on Craigslist.  Both pieces are super-comfy and sport wide teak arms and legs, original fabric, chrome feet and funky casters.  I tried haggling because I really don’t need the chair but couldn’t bear to break up the set.  Impetuosity overcame me and I bought them both.

I’m going to take some time over the Christmas break to assemble Ikea-ware and unpack boxes so this new pad becomes my own little home sweet home.  As I’ve been documenting, the last 18 months has been devoted to starting a business.  As you’ve read, it hasn’t been easy.  I’m not proud of every moment but its like life: good days and bad ones.  In general I’m very proud of what we’ve done.  Yes, “we”.  Although my name is on the door (or above it) this has not been a solo flight.  I am keenly aware of the contribution of scores of others who’ve helped create Caplansky’s Delicatessen.

In my former life as a political organizer I used to tell candidates never to name names in their election night thank you speech.  The reason? Someone always gets left out and I know how that feels from my own experience.  It sucks.  Let me generalize then.  I owe a debt of gratitude to my customers who keep coming back.  Here’s an email I received yesterday from Fraser Robinson:

“I was a big fan of the Clinton operation but was all bummed and negative when I showed up in those new days on College street and you’d run out of smoked meat…granted, I settled happily for the Grilled Versht, which was amazing, but I was still overly grumbly. “I’ll never be back!”, “An outrage!” etc… No longer. Had the smoked meat and a poutine tonight and I’m back in love. Hot stuff.
With great respect from a fickle eater, I remain your humble (and once again regular) client,” See why I love this business?

A therapist once told me that he defines happiness as “the struggle for a worthwhile goal”.  If that’s true then I owe thanks to my team who stuck with me through the fire of hell that was opening week and shared with me the joy of knowing we’re building something special.  Building a business is a worthwhile goal and this struggle brings me lots of happiness (as well frustration, stress, exhaustion and lots in between).  It has at times been an overwhelming experience and I know I’m getting better at it day by day.

When I decided to leave the Monarch I knew I’d have to raise some money to renovate the new space.  Following the “House of Chan Model” I assembled an A List of community leaders to back me.  Last week we had our first Quarterly Investor’s Breakfast and it could have gone much worse.  See, one of my great failings is my incompetence with financial accounting.  All my attention has been on operations not administration.  We’ve drafted outside help to get the books in shape but by the time of the meeting all the bank rec’s hadn’t been finished so the numbers were “soft”.  Soft as in “a pice of shit”.  The guys were very patient and supportive.  They could have raked me over the coals but asked good hard questions instead.  They expressed their confidence in me and satisfaction with our performance.  So this is to thank The Guys for their support and understanding as well as to the admin team who are working hard to firm up the numbers.

The food press deserves a special thanks.  You have given me more ink, more buzz, more hype and type and airtime than any single restaurant can deserve.  The only thing I ask is that you don’t stop.  Nu? You expected me to say otherwise?

The crew who designed and built the deli? Thanks!

I would be remiss if I didn’t thank the deli crazies out there.  I don’t mean that to sound derogatory because these are the hardcore bedrock of supporters every business needs.  These are the folks who write books, post reviews, tell friends, bring family, celebrate birthdays (weddings, brises, shivas, baby namings and bat mitzvahs) with us, hire us to cater, make suggestions, offer to help and just generally get behind me and PUSH!!!  You guys rock and I love you.

To my family and friends: I thank you for understanding that I missed your party, gig, gathering, opening, wedding, play and/or dinner because I was engaged in the struggle for a worthwhile cause.  I’ve had four fantastic girlfriends in the last 18 months yet once again find myself single.  Clearly the struggle I’ve been engaged in hasn’t led to an engagement. However, I believe in the Yiddish concept of “beshert”.  What is “meant to be”, will be.  That doesn’t mean I think we are all like railcars on a predetermined track leading to a destination over which we have no control.  No, I believe that life is what we make it.

Then what shall we make?  I don’t know about you but I’m making a cozy nest.  And did I mention I cook?  :)

I got a call today from Adam McDowell of the National Post. He wanted some comments from me about the poster campaign created by Michael Takasaki and Glen D’Souza of ad agency Bensimon Byrne. I guess its a slow news day. I was a little uncomfortable discussing the subject because some of the ads are a little controvertial and you know how I hate being controversial. Cough cough.

We had a nice chat, Adam and I. “Which poster is the most controvertial.” He asked. This was the question I dreaded. I told him I thought calling out Jesus was over the line but the boys printed it anyway. And even though I’d tucked it behind another poster someone untucked it for all the world to see. Yet no one complained so I left it untucked. It is funny, after all.

http://network.nationalpost.com/np/blogs/theappetizer/archive/2009/11/19/doing-it-deli-style.aspx