Sunday the Slicer Slept in
Sunday, February 21st, 2010And Monday he was looking for another job. Except that this slicer is never late and the last time he missed a shift he called us from the police station where he was giving a statement before going to get his broken arm looked after. He actually came in yesterday for breakfast on his day off. We’re frankly worried about him.
Anyway, his absence meant that I was pressed into service and for the first time in ages I stepped in to slice on a busy Sunday. Its not like I haven’t sliced in a while but I’ve been doing these pansy-assed catering gigs where there’s no time pressure and its a total shmooze-fest instead of a full-on slicing shift in the deli.
“Need a drink,” asked Giulia mid-rush around 1pm. “You’re shvitzing” (yiddish for sweating). I think she was sort of snickering but I didn’t look up to see. It sounded snickerish but not in a mean way. “7-up, please” I said. “When’s Joe coming in for relief,” I asked. It actually got to the point where my hands were cramping around the handles of the knives and I had to ask Charlie to do a 2.5 lb take-out order for me.
There were days when I could crack single walnuts in my fists but that was because of my motorcycle. No one told me you can get clamps for your accelerator and consequently my grip was fierce following long bike trips. In any case, those days are gone although I really did have fun today and wouldn’t mind doing a few shifts a week slicing again. Plus it keeps me out of trouble and helps me focus on the meat.
I have started writing a reply to Corey Mintz’s question about consistency but I’ve yet to write something that I felt was worth publishing. Its not a simple question but it is an important one. I don’t want to sound defensive or incompetent either. I could mention that in “Save the Deli” David Sax quotes Schwartz’s owner Hy Diamond as saying that the barrel aged, dry-cured method of curing meat we use tends towards inconsistency.
There are variables in every part of the process which includes: curing, turning, spicing, smoking, cooling, steaming and slicing. Left out of this list is the cut of the brisket itself, the fridge temperatures, air pressure and all the human errors that could and do occur.
Of course, training and supervising people is the first, best thing we can do. And certainly the desire is there….





