Archive for May, 2009

Shnaer Zalman Duchman

Sunday, May 31st, 2009

I am named after my great-grandfather who is the subject of this post.  Shnaer Zalman Duchman was my father’s mother’s father and by all accounts a very special individual.  He died well before I was born but I knew his daughter well.  Towards the end of her life my Auntie Nachama spent her summers with my family in Toronto and Huntsville.  I was her favourite for two reasons. 1. I’m named for her father and 2. I loved to listen to her stories of her life and the lives of my ancestors.  

She told me about being a seamstress in Eaton’s sweatshops.  In her heavy White Russian accent she’d tell me about my beloved city and family.  Best of all, she’d tell me about her father.  ”Shnaer” is an honourific title but he didn’t require that because he was a man of honour.  She used to tell me that her father had a twinkle in his eye and that he was very kind and gentle.  I always imagined him as an enormously loving and pious man. The pictures I’ve seen of him always show him dressed in traditional orthodox dress with a long grey beard.

Professionally, Shnaer Zalman was a shochet – a ritual slaughterer.  The Jewish laws of Kashruth say that for meat to be kosher it must be killed in a particular manner by a recognised shochet. About 100 years ago, my great-grandfather lived and worked at 112 Nassau Street in Kensington Market right next to the Devon Dairy.  When customers ask about my family heritage I always invoke his name and qualifications.  So I was intrigued when his grandson Lloyd came to the deli with his three sons and mentioned that there was a controversy surrounding Shnaer Zalman.  He didn’t know exactly what happened but it was bad enough that Shnaer Zalman’s sons (Lloyd’s father and uncle) became secular Jews – generally uninterested in religious observance at least to any degree close to their father’s.

I asked my father and my Uncle Melvyn and they filled in the details.  Turns out that among his other attributes, my great-grandfather was a Socialist.  As such, he attempted to organise a union among the kosher slaughterers at the Canada Packers plant that he also worked at.  The story goes that the company didn’t appreciate his efforts and in retaliation paid off someone on the Rabbinical Council so they would de-certify his status as a kosher butcher.  Melvyn told me there was a hearing, that he was indeed de-certified and that it was a sham.

More than just a fascinating if tragic slice of Toronto history, this story has bearing for me and for my customers. That story helped humanise an otherwise mystical figure in my life.  I am proud of who he was and what he did.  I am proud to bear his name.

And I will NEVER serve kosher food in my restaurant.

1000 words

Saturday, May 9th, 2009

I love the photo of Ruth Reichl in this link. The stairway is so dark but the flash shines a light towards the open door. Here, I need to give a shout out to Mr. I. Pelech who taught me the meaning of metaphor. He was my English Teacher for 3 years and had a profound impact on my ability to communikate. lol

Not so fast…

Saturday, May 9th, 2009

I had wanted some rest following the lease-signing but that doesn’t appear likely for a week or two or three. Seems I have a long list of things that need to be done now. “Now” as is NOW so they’ll be ready for opening. I have been toying with the idea of telling people we’ll open in September and then opening in July to avoid any repeat of last year’s opening “fiasco”. Running out of food is not an option.

The training wheels are coming off just in time for an Ortho appointment in June. I don’t know how fast the man can cut but maybe I’ll just wait for some relaxation time during recovery and rehab. In the meantime, I’m thinking about heading to New York for a 72 hour Fressathon. Strictly research. I hear they have some nice delis there. lol

Some rumours are true

Thursday, May 7th, 2009

I’m clearly not very good at keeping secrets but why should I? As you may know, I’ve signed an offer to lease 356 College Street. Nervous, excited – all of that. “I feel like a bag of Jello” I just told my friend Jesse Vallins (chef at Trevor). Earlier today I dropped off a big cheque to the landlord and was given a key. We hope to be open in July to take advantage of the patio.

As far as the Monarch is concerned, I have NOT decided what I’ll do.

Thanks to everyone who sent their good wishes to the facebook group, twitter and other sites.

Ruth Reichl Tweeted that my meat is “awesome”

Wednesday, May 6th, 2009

The Pope. The Queen Bee. The One and Only. Chef, author, journalist, critic. Ruth Reichl, Editor of Gourmet Magazine. I don’t think I’m overdoing this. I had a life-changing experience this evening. Following my experience, thanks to Bonnie, I met up with Ruth and Bonnie and Joanne – yes, that Joanne – at the Al Green Theatre at the JCC. Ms. Reichl is on a book tour and before a packed house was interviewed by the charming Joanne Kates.

What does she look like? I have no idea. Ms. Kates wore an elaborate disguise. In fact, after the event I rushed the stage because I needed to thank Joanne Kates in person. The things she wrote have meant more to me on every level than I could ever repay. Funny enough, Ruth waved and said good bye and Joanne Kates looked at me through her mask and I heard her say “I know who you are” as she fled across the stage like I had just come from Mexico and coughed her way.

There is another tie in but I’m reticent to say what that is. Lara, you remember her, told me I should keep it quiet. She is usually right about these things. Maybe I can tantalize you with a clue. Bonnie reminded Ruth (would you listen to me?) that her magazine is publishing a story that pertains to a subject near to my heart. That’s enough. I’m still going to hear about it from Lara.

Anyway, more about tonight. I sat in the first row with friend Andrea Brent – a huge fan of Reichl’s books. In the Q & A someone asked where she ate in Toronto. “I just had dinner at Caplansky’s” she said and I swear to God a cheer went up. Ok. It was me but others cheered too. I won’t quote whatever she said because I’d surely embellish if not outright lie.

Here’s what she Tweeted: “Caplansky’s smoked meat awesome. Along with the single most decadent knish ever made, involving smoked meat, puff pastry, schmaltz…” As soon as Lara sent me that I called Manny to tell him. While I can’t speak for the man, I imagine for a Jewish kid from Brooklyn to have your knish declared “the single most decadent knish ever made” by Her Ruthness has to be close to “It”. He was pleased. I’m beyond thrilled. Really, I’m buzzing.

Because of Ruth’s visit – check tomorrow’s National Post – we didn’t sign a lease today. Tomorrow is soon enough and checking the clock I see that its here. Perfect timing because I’m ready for bed. All this excitement… lol

Me and Mrs. Stern

Tuesday, May 5th, 2009

I’m on my way to the lawyer’s office to sign the lease this afternoon. Its 3pm-ish. I’ve given myself plenty of extra time so the traffic up Bathurst Street doesn’t even phase me. What could go wrong? Nothing.

My phone rings. Bonnie Stern is calling and I love Bonnie Stern (in the most culinary way possible). Bonnie called a few days ago to let me know she was coming in to conduct an interview with a time-sensitive guest on Tuesday – today. I assured her I’d come in on my day-off to take care of them. That changed when our signing was moved to 4.30 pm. Now the phone is ringing and I tell Bonnie the bad/good news. Mazel tov! Yadda yadda “Oh, so you won’t be there?” she says. “Did I tell you who my guest is?” she asks. She hadn’t but when she did I pushed my lease signing until tomorrow.

Now I’m off to receive Bonnie and…

A Tiny Perfect Deli

Saturday, May 2nd, 2009

David Crombie has been in my place twice now. I’m such a huge fan of his. The “Tiny Perfect Mayor” told me that since he came the first time he’s had 9 people recommend our deli to him. He told me he ran into the Greenspan brothers at a dinner honouring Allan Borovoy and when my deli came up – that was the end of the conversation. Mr. Mayor even commented how much he likes the Monarch. It’s nice to see the tide turning on the Monarch. The place finally seems to be getting some respect. This morning I heard he even gave me a plug on Steve Paikin’s show. I really do love what i do.

If everything goes according to plan, I may escape for a week soon. I really just want to relax and get off this knee. In a few weeks, I will have been waiting 1 year for an appointment with a surgeon. You’d think with 2, count ‘em 2, Ministers of Health in the family one might have some shlep. Nuh uh. I wait in line like every other person and that entitles me to complain. Click away if you can’t bear it another moment.

But if you did click away you will have missed my really big news: I put in an offer to lease a space. If accepted I won’t have another opportunity for rest for many months. I won’t say which space until the deal is done.