Archive for August, 2008

T’was the night before the night before

Thursday, August 28th, 2008

So the Grand Opening is two days away and (prepare for ‘famous last’ wordage) everything seems under control.  Is that the sound of distant thunder or Bacchus having a laugh at my expense?  Really, what could go wrong, Murph?  The Meat is smoking, the steamer is steaming, John’s got the veg under control, Wanda’s baking a cake, Sam’s bringing pickles, Manny’s bringing knishes and I’m soaking my good slicing arm in pickle juice.  Why you ask? Just cuz.

I gotta tell you I find this whole blog thing cathartic.  I can come home at the end of a day and spill my guts a little.  The off-putting part is that I know people are reading it.  These posts will be better after Lara goes back to New York because at the moment she gets to hear me vent at the end of the day. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not looking forward to taking her to the airport but such is Toronto life.

Speaking of which, I got a call this morning from a fact checker from that venerable publication.  Seems they’re doing a piece on Toronto delis for the November issue and I got a mention.  I also understand there’s a review in the same issue.  While this is tremendously exciting its not like its the Canadian Jewish News or even Heeb Magazine.  And yes, I subscribe to the latter.  Where else could I get home delivery of a Jewish swimsuit calendar?

I read David Sax’s post today on www.savethedeli.com about my party.  What a whirlwind my life has been since mid June.  Honest to God I thought I’d have a quiet little summer.  I figured it’d take months for people to find me if at all.  I figured I’d go sailing in the afternoons and return to make a sandwich or two.  I never imagined running out of meat.  I never imagined all the press, Chowhoud buzz and the incredibly generous word-of-mouth not to mention the celebrities, hipsters, foodies and best of all falling in love.

Tears well in my eyes when I imagine what I’m going to say to all my peeps on Friday.  I confess I balled when speaking to my cousin Estelle, the matriarch of the clan Caplansky when we spoke the other day. She had been in with daughter Joanie and cousin Ted Axler.  Estelle triggered my tears when she told me I have her unqualified approval.  She even told me my borscht reminded her of my great-grandmother Molly’s.  These are some of the people on whose shoulders I humbly stand.

I am filled with gratitude as well as certitude. This is me.  This is what I have to offer. And while its nice to know ”you really like me”, as Sally Field said, it more important that I like me.  After much soul searching I have finally discovered my authentic self.  What is in my heart is in my food.  I am a sandwich maker, a soup meister and a brisket slinger.  My coleslaw’s not bad either.

Today was a good day. God willing I’ll have another tomorrow and if she’s really generous another one after that.

A Rough Week

Saturday, August 23rd, 2008

So here I am, sailing along smooth as can be and we can all guess what happens next.  This has been the craziest and most expensive week in memory.  First my eBay purchased steamer arrives like it’s been dropped from on high – the door is smashed off, the racks are busted and even the screws are gone.  Mike and I poured it into my car and I took it to Ryan at Booga on Ossington for repair.  Was supposed to be done on Tuesday.  Its Friday.  Hello?!?

Last Sunday my smoker failed.  Instead of a relaxing day off with Lara I had to fight traffic to Vaughan and get the thing fixed.  Today it failed again and I had to make the trip at 3pm on a Friday.  Me gnawing on my steering wheel and all the kids going to the cottage with their feet hanging out the windows.  Luckily Lara was there to talk me down from the ledge and remind me that this is what having a business is all about.  She really is wonderful. Now I’m looking for a better smoker which may require a move to a bigger space.  My current smoker is temporary at best.

Then the oven starts acting up on Monday.  Pilot keeps going out and since we don’t have a proper steamer we rely far too heavily on the oven to keep stuff warm.  But now we can’t turn it off for fear of having to relight the thing. Its maddening to keep having to watch the flame and try to adjust the temp.  I finally buckled and called the repair guy.  He came Wednesday and fixed the pilot/temp problem during our second busiest lunch ever.  We work in the world’s tiniest space and yesterday we had a large man with tools and an open oven to dance around.   That cost more than the steamer.

That same day one of my staff forgot to drain the meat from the rinse bath.  The result was that 10 briskets sat overnight in salt and got very tough and unusable.  They were huge pieces too.  Wasted.  I was really angry because I have a certain amount of stress regarding the party.  I want to have at least 20 briskets prepped and ready so this was a significant setback.  We actually had to close for a few hours today until a new batch was ready.  I think we only disappointed a handful of people so it wasn’t as bad as it could have been but it was still a tough day. Not to mention that my matzoh balls wouldn’t hold together. Really: one of those days and weeks.

And the week’s not over…

The good news is that the cheese curd supply has been solved so now I’m just waiting for Jesse to come help me with the gravy.  Beef or turkey? Probably beef although our turkey is really popular so I have drippings to make a gravy with.

Lara wants me to use Greg’s ice cream instead of Dutch Dreams.  I don’t know.  Summer’s almost done and my freezer space is minimal.  I may forget about ice cream altogether.  She’s going back to New York after the party anyway so what does she care?  

If this is as bad as it gets, I can manage.  I still look forward to going in every day and cutting meat, schmoozing with friends and customers and laughing with my team.  This is my calling.  This is my life. Meat is good.

By Popular Demand

Sunday, August 17th, 2008

Have you heard we’re doing smoked turkey?  According to Lara and Shelley, it’s “the best ever”.  I brine the bone-in breasts for a day (or more) and then smoke ‘em over maple for 7 hours.  The brining ensures they don’t dry out and the flavour is incredible (is that obnoxious for me to say?). Bring your girlfriend or boyfriend who isn’t as crazy as you are about eating smoked meat three times a week in for a sample. We serve it on rye bread with honey mustard and at $7 I’m really not making any money.

For the record, the turkey was done at Jessica’s request.  Jessica is my first staff (poached from the Magic Oven) but she’s so much more than that. She’s helped keep me sane during an insane time and took on part of my burden without being asked or properly compensated.  Frankly, she’s priceless but I do plan to bestow the first ever Caplansky’s Scholarship on her once you all come in and eat more.

Speaking of inspirations, the third staff member, Ilana, suggested I sample Wanda’s Pie In The Sky as our desert supplier.  No longer do I give away, throw out or even eat my own deserts.  Wanda’s Cherry, Mixed Berry and Black Bottom Pecan Pies are flying off the shelf.  Soon enough they’ll be matched with Dutch Dreams ice creams because I love Theo and Dina’s frozen delights.

So what happened to the Second staff member, you may ask?  Well, Megan’s vegan.  I’m serious, she totally is. She slices, cures, turns and serves meat but she won’t eat the stuff.  I’m actually convinced she eats it when no one’s looking but I have no proof of that.  She keep bugging me to do smoked tofu but it’s not going to happen.  Sorry, Megs, but its like the Kosher thing.  My customers don’t care about it enough to pay what would be required to make it feasible. Plus, what do Jews know from tofu?  Its just not deli.

Last, I’ve heard enough people ask for poutine that I’m pleased to say it’ll be here before the hockey season starts.  Jesse Vallins, chef at Trevor on Wellington, has promised to come in for a gravy consultation in a week or two. Of course, we’ll have authentic cheese curds to melt into the gooey mess you just can’t find in Toronto.  Incidentally, Jesse’s the same guy who taught me to make the House Mustard that everyone’s been going crazy over.  He is an incredible talent as well as a superior human being and a great friend.  The man even has a bacon-print wallet!  Need I say more?

Can’t wait for the Grand Opening!  Looks like we’ll have a party to remember.

Grand Opening August 29, 2008

Saturday, August 9th, 2008

Yesterday, as you may have heard if you’re a Facebook member of Caplansky’s Deli, I made lunch for Getty Lee.  I’ve met all kinds of famous people but this was a huge thrill because I grew up on his music and still listen to my Rush vinyl.  As I stood watching him enjoy his combo, I wondered what to say. When he got up to leave and I made my move.  

“So, we’re doing a Grand Opening Party on August 29,” I said “and I’m looking for a local band to play…”

“Ummmmm,” he said probably wondering how to brush me off – quickly.

“No,” I said, “I’m just kidding, I’m a huge fan and its a thrill to have you here.” He seemed relieved, extended his hand and introduced himself formally.  ”When’s the opening,” he asked. “August 29, a Friday.  We’re going to have Major Maker, Steve Singh and SoCalled (tentatively). Plus free food.” The rest of the conversation was a total blur although I did save face by resisting the urge to ask for a photo or autograph.

Then a superstar of another sort returned today.  Brian Greenspan, widely regarded as one of the best legal minds Canada has ever produced came in to taste my new homemade mustard.  The first time we met, Brian told me he has a separate fridge just to hold his collection of mustard so when I made my first batch I sent him an email asking him to come back for a consultation.  I didn’t know he was in Greece at the time but as soon as he came back he came in for a taste.  Not only did he give it his personal seal of approval but he said the absolute nicest thing to me: “With you and Bagel World opening downtown, my life is now complete.”  

Last but never least, Trevor Head Chef Jesse Vallins, the man responsible for teaching me the basic mustard technique, returned to try the second batch.  This time I added roasted leeks and garlic as well as grated horseradish. Its got some bite but not too much.  I am proud of it and he was too.  Two of the finest meals I ever had were made by him at Trevor.  My birthday meal a couple months ago and the pre-Coldplay meal when I wanted to impress Lara.